Hospital and Cubical Curtain Track Installation Tutorial and
Help Page.
Welcome to MedicalProductsDirect.com 's curtain track
installation tutorial. Chances are if you found this page you are a little confused on what all the different parts are for and how you need to go about installing your cubicle curtain track
system. Rest assured that if you have a little bit of
aptitude using basic hand tools and a drill, you will not have any
problems installing our line of curtain tracking.
If you need any help designing your privacy curtain
track system you can contact our helpful support team at
support@medicalproductsdirect.com
or call our toll free number
1-800-804-9549 Hospital Curtain Track Quote Form
- PDF form fill out and email it to us!
Hospital Curtain Track Tutorial (this page)
Hospital Curtain Track Tutorial
- PDF format for download
We will start off
describing the 3 types of Curtain Track Installations.
- Flush Mount
Installation: This is where the track
will be attached directly to a flat solid ceiling such as sheetrock.
- Grid Ceiling
Installation: This is where the track is being
attached to the hanging ceilings that a lot of commercial buildings
have, also known as acoustic tile ceilings. There is a little
bit more involved in the installation on a suspended ceiling, but
easily handled with the proper attachment hardware that we sell.
- Suspended Track
Installation: This is where the track is suspended
down from the ceiling using special mounting hardware. A
suspended installation might be needed because of very tall ceilings or
if you need to run the track under an obstruction such as a light
fixture or HVAC vent.
Next we will be
describing the basic components and what their purpose is:
-
Track:
This the main component of any curtain track installation. It
comes in 8' straight sticks, 4' 90 degree bends (2' x 2' each way) and
4' 45 degree bends (2' x 2' each way). The curtain tracks
purpose is to hold the carrier roller hooks that your curtains hang
on. Track can be trimmed to your desired length very easily
with a standard hacksaw.
Carrier
Rollers: This is the second main
component of any curtain track installation. They are
basically a small axel with 2 wheels on it with a hook hanging from the
bottom. These fit snuggly inside the curtain track and carry
the weight of the curtain you hang on them. They come in a
standard model with a chain on them and also in a break-away
model that allows the hook portion to separate from the
roller body in the event someone falls and grabs the curtain.
This prevents damage to the carrier rollers and track
mounting. It is also a safety feature to use anywhere someone
might try to use the curtain for suicide such as jails, detention
centers and mental hospitals.
Splicing
Clamps: This is a necessary
item. The splicing clamp fits over the top of the track at
any point where two pieces of track connect together. Its
purpose is to hold the track in alignment. It does not
actually hold the track together, it just prevents the ends from
getting out of alignment which is important so they carrier rollers
will roll from on piece of track to the next without snagging or
hanging up.
End
Stops & Snap
Out Fittings: These two parts work together to
provide you a place to remove the carrier rollers from the track to
replace broken rollers. The end stop goes on the end of the track to
prevent rollers from falling out the end of the track. They
are installed on the top side of the track with the open side
down. You leave a 1/2" gap between the end of the track and
the end of the end stop. This gap is so you can pop a snap
out fitting in place. This snap out fitting can then be
removed or snapped out to remove rollers.
Joining
Sleeves, Cross
Brackets and Tee
Brackets: These are attached to the top of the
track at places where the track intersects with another
track. Its purpose is to hold the track in
alignment. It does not allow the rollers to transition from
one track to the other, it simply holds the track in position from the
bumps and jars they receive on a daily basis. You don't HAVE to have
them on a flush mount installation if the track is anchored very
sturdily but they are a necessity on a suspended installation or
suspended ceiling installation to hold them steady and in
place. These are attached to the top of the track. Note the
joining sleeves come in a right and left hand model, the images on the
product sales pages show which is which.
Ceiling
Flanges, Suspension
Tubes and Screw
Inserts: These parts are used in a
suspended track installation. You need to have a suspension
tube every 2.5 feet or 30". We will get into more detail
further down in this tutorial but this is the basic ideal. A
ceiling flange is mounted to the ceiling, a piece of cut to length
suspension tube is attached to the flange, then a screw insert is
inserted into the end of the suspension tube. You then
install a screw through a hole in the top of the track and it screws
into the hole on the insert. When you tight the screw down it
swells into the end of the tube proving a strong anchor point.
Ceiling
Clips: These are used to anchor a track
to a acoustic tile (suspended) ceiling. The suspended ceiling
tiles lie in a T track, these clips are designed to quickly attach to
this T track. You drill a hole through the track, insert the
ceiling clip screw from the bottom then into this clip. The
clip opens and closes like a set of jaws via a slot in the
clip. You then simply lift the track into place, close the
jaws around the track and tighten the screw very easily and with no
damage to the acoustic ceiling track.
Wall
Brackets: These are used in a suspended
track installation. These are placed anywhere a track meets
the wall to prevent the track from moving or swaying. They also come in
white
to match the track if you go with our white powder coated track.
Drop
Chain & Drop
Strips: These perform the same function,
it just depends on your personal preference on looks which one you
choose. They are just an extension to hang the curtain on for
tall ceilings. For example if you have a 9.5 foot ceiling but
you wanted to use an 8 foot tall curtain you can either
suspend the track down or use these drop strip / drop chains to
accomplish the same thing. Rather than hang the curtain
direct on the carrier roller hook you hang a drop strip/chain on the
carrier roller. The drop strip has a hook on the end that you then hang
the curtain on.
Curtain
Tie Backs: These are a convenient way to
hold the curtain back against the wall when not needed or during
cleaning of the area. A very long curtain will bunch up into
a pretty small area against the way but if you don't have a way of
holding it there it's natural tendency is to spread back out.
You can use a bungee or something similar to hold them in place but
these mount to the wall permanently right where you need
them. They are nickel plated and look sanitary and nice.
Determining
Curtain Size & the number of carrier roller hooks you will
need:
First you need to determine the size of curtain you will
need.
- Your curtain needs to be 20% wider than the opening you
intend to cover to give it the proper fullness or bunch. A
more complete explanation of curtain sizing can be found
HERE.
- For example if you have a 10' by 10' L-shaped track and you
want to be able to cover the entire length of track you will need 288"
width of curtain. This can be a single curtain but it easier
to launder two 144" curtains than it is a single large one.
It is also usually more economical to buy 2 curtains as opposed to a
single large one.
- How did we come up with 288" width needed? We
added the two 10' sides together to get 20'. Multiply 20 foot
times 12" to get 240" of track length. Then multiply that by
20% (240 x 1.2 = 288)
- Standard commercial curtains have a grommet for the hooks
every 6". So in the example above we are going to order two
144" curtains. So each curtain will need 25 carrier
rollers. (144 / 6 = 24) plus you need a roller at the start
of the curtain. So you would need 50 rollers total.
I would suggest buying a few extras for replacements in the event
someone falls and grabs the curtain and damages 1 or more rollers.
- To determine the height of the curtain you need to know the
height of the track, the distance you want the curtain off the
floor. Take the height of the track, subtract the distance
you want the curtain off the floor, then subtract and additional 3.5"
for the length the hooks hang down. Round up to the next size
taller or shorter curtain.
Installation
Instructions:
You now know the installation types and have a
general working knowledge of the different pieces and parts.
Now we will go into detail on how to actually install the track along
with some tips and suggestions that will make your installation a
breeze.
Some basic
instructions that relate to all track installations.
- Always wear the proper safety equipment. Safety
glasses at a minimum. You will be working overhead with fresh
cut metal and you don't want metal shavings falling into your
eye. Work gloves and a hard hat is highly
suggested. This prevents cuts and painful bumps on the head
from doing overhead work.
- On the inside of the track there is a line that runs down
the center of the track. Make sure and drill your mounting
holes in the dead center. If the mounting screws is off to
one side the rollers might bump into it causing the curtain to hang up
or damage the carrier rollers.
- Regardless of how you anchor the track to the ceiling
make sure that you use a screw with a low profile head.
A pan head screw or flathead countersink screw works the
best. If the screw head sticks out too far into the track it
might impede the rollers from traveling up and down the
track. You can check this before you start by inserting a
roller into the end of a piece of track then holding your chosen screw
up beside the end of the track to ensure there will be plenty of
clearance.
- You need a mount or attachment point every 30 inches along
the entire length of track. This is the manufactures minimum
requirements for a safe installation that will not sag, bend or
fall. If you have a very heavy curtain you may even want to
put them closer together.
- When cutting the track with a hacksaw use a square and mark
the cut on three sides. Use a hack saw with a fine tooth
metal cutting blade. Cut from the top (flat side) first and
take long slow controlled strokes with the saw. Constantly
check both side to make sure you are not veering off the cut
line. This track is aluminum and it cuts very easy so use
light pressure and it will still cut very fast. To prevent scratching
the track & suspension tube during cutting you can place
masking tape over the area to be cut, this will prevent scratches and
also give you a very smooth cut finish.
- After making a cut remove the burrs with a file, de-burring
tool or sandpaper.
- Always place cut ends against the wall leaving factory cuts
to match up together. This will hide any imperfections in
your cut and also prevent any imperfection from impeding roller
movement within the track.
- Cut the track as you go, don't cut it all
beforehand. If you make a slight mistake or the installation
is not 100% square you can often make up the difference by adjusting
the length of the final piece slightly to fit the opening.
- Before you cut ANY track, lay everything out on the floor
exactly where it is going to go. Place the track with the
slot down in the same position it will be in when installed.
Snap the end stops into place. Put the snap out fittings into
the end stop. Mark all of your cuts with it laying on the
floor in position with all fittings & parts in place. Measure
twice and cut once. It is easy to get the cuts flip flopped
when working with anything but a square layout.
Instructions
for installing a flush mount ceiling track where the track is attached
directly to a solid ceiling .
- Lay out your track face down where you intend to install
with all pieces including end stops in place.
- Mark your layout on the ceiling with a pencil or chalk line.
- Start your installation against a wall. Try to
place any track that you have to cut to length with the cut end up
against the wall. This will give you smooth factory cuts to work with
where the track meets.
- Determine where your mounting screws should go.
There should be an attachment point every 2.5 feet (30 inches) at
minimum. It is suggested you place attachment screws into
ceiling joist or studs if possible. Sometimes you will need
to use drywall anchors when the planned layout runs lengthwise between
the joist. Depending on your needs you may want to install
additional bracing in the ceiling for the track to attach to.
- Once you have determined where you should anchor your track
mark the first piece of track for mounting holes. There is a
line in the middle of the inside of the track that marks the
center. Drill a small pilot hole, then drill with the proper
size bit for the fastener you are using. Drilling the pilot
hole first with make it a lot easier to keep the holes in the center.
- After you have drilled the mounting holes place the track
against the ceiling and mark your holes on the ceiling. If
there are studs to mount to, attach the track directly, if not drill
holes and place your anchors. Place your end stop &
snap out fitting on the track and start all your mounting
screws. Make sure all the screws are started before
tightening them.
- Leave the last mounting screw a little loose to give you
room to install the splicing clamp over the end of the track.
- Mark your next piece of track for length and mounting
holes, cut to length if needed and drill holes as before. Put
the track in place and butt it up against the end of the previous
track. Slide the splicing clamp up over the track joint,
center over the joint and tighten the last screw from the previous
piece of track. Then place all the screws in the track you
are working on.
- Spend some time making sure the alignment is perfect before
tightening down the screw next to the splicing clamp / joint.
Finish tightening down the rest of the screws leaving the last one
loose for the splicing clamp for the next track section.
- Repeat till you reach the end of the track
layout. Cut & measure the last piece of track
carefully with the proper amount allowed for the end stop &
snap out fitting.
- After you are satisfied with the track layout &
installation run a small self drilling screw up through the track into
each end stop and splicing clamp to bond them together.
- Pop the snap out fitting out and place the proper amount of
carrier rollers into the track. Replace snap out fitting. Hang curtain.
Instructions for installing a ceiling track where the track is
attached directly to a suspended ceiling (grid ceiling, acoustic
ceiling) .
Installing on a suspended ceiling is very similar to a flush
mount installation. But rather than anchoring directly to the
ceiling you install ceiling clips onto the top of the track where you
would normally place an anchor. The ceiling clips are
designed to clamp around the grid on the suspended ceiling.
- Lay out your track face down where you intend to install
with all pieces including end stops in place.
- You may need to adjust your layout so the track runs in
alignment with the ceiling grid which you will be attaching to.
- Start your installation against a wall with any cut track
ends up against the wall.
- Determine where your ceiling clips should go.
There should be an attachment point every 2.5 feet (30 inches) at
minimum.
- Once you have determined where you should anchor your track
mark the first piece of track for ceiling clip mounting
holes. There is a line in the middle of the inside of the
track that marks the center. Drill a small pilot hole, then
drill with the proper size bit for the fastener you are
using. Drilling the pilot hole first with make it a lot
easier to keep the holes in the center.
- After you have drilled the mounting holes place the ceiling
clip screw through the hole in the track from the bottom&
thread it into the ceiling clip leaving it slightly loose leaving the
ceiling clip on top pf the track. Place the track against the
ceiling and slide the ceiling clip closed around the ceiling grid
track.
- Leave the last mounting screw a little loose to give you
room to install the splicing clamp over the end of the track.
- Mark your next piece of track for length and mounting
holes, cut to length if needed and drill holes as before.
Then place all the ceiling clips in the track you are working
on. Put the track in place and butt it up against the end of
the previous track. Slide the splicing clamp up over the
track joint, center over the joint and tighten the last screw from the
previous piece of track. Close all the ceiling clips around
the ceiling grid and tighten, leaving the last one loose to allow for
installation of the splicing clamp.
- Spend some time making sure the alignment is perfect before
tightening down the screw next to the splicing clamp / joint.
Finish tightening down the rest of the screws leaving the last one
loose for the splicing clamp for the next track section.
- Repeat till you reach the end of the track
layout. Cut & measure the last piece of track
carefully with the proper amount allowed for the end stop &
snap out fitting.
- After you are satisfied with the track layout &
installation run a small self drilling screw up through the track into
each end stop and splicing clamp to bond them together.
- Pop the snap out fitting out and place the proper amount of
carrier rollers into the track. Replace snap out fitting. Hang curtain.
Instructions
for installing a ceiling track where the track is suspended down from the ceiling
Suspended track installations are often used when you have a
very tall ceiling heights. Basically they are similar to a
standard track installation but you have to also use ceiling flanges,
suspension tubes & screw inserts to suspend the track down from
the ceiling. You will need 1 ceiling flange, 1 screw insert
and one length of suspension tube cut to you desired length for each
30" of track. You will also need to anchor each end of the
track to the wall using our wall brackets. The wall brackets
are to brace the track steady in place and do not actually hold the
weight of the track up. The suspension tubes are what bears
the weight of the installation.
- Lay out your track face down where you intend to install
with all pieces including end stops in place.
- Start your installation against a wall with any cut track
ends up against the wall.
- Determine where your suspension tube mounts should
go. There should be an attachment point every 2.5 feet (30
inches) at minimum.
- Once you know the number of tubes you need you can now cut
the suspension tubes into the lengths needed to suspend the track at
your desired height.
- Attach the ceiling flanges for the first piece of track to
the ceiling. There is a hole in the center of the flange that can be
attached to a ceiling joist or drywall anchor.
- Cut the suspension tube to the desired length.
- Insert a screw insert into the end of the tube. The best
way to install these is to lay the insert on the floor with the star
tension washer up and place the tube over the end and use the weight of
your body to push the tube down onto the insert. You may need to tap
the insert with a rubber hammer to fully seat the insert after pushing
it in. These are very strong and impossible to remove once
installed in the end of the suspension tube so make sure your tube is
the right length before installing.
- Attached the suspension tube to the ceiling
flange.
- If you are using the white ceiling flanges screw 2 self
drilling screws into the tube through the provided holes in the flange
or alternately for a stronger installation you can drill a hole all the
way through and use a long bolt & nut to attach the suspension
tube to the flange.
- If you are using the silver ceiling flange you will need to
insert the tube up into the flange and mark the tube with a
marker. Then drill a 5/16" hole in the tube at the
mark. The supplied 1/4-20 is then screwed into the threaded
hole in the flange - through the tube & tightens against the
inside of the tube.
- Now hold the track up against the suspension tubes
& mark the holes. There is a line in the middle of
the inside of the track that marks the center. Drill a small
pilot hole, then drill a 5/16" hole in the track. Attach the
track to the suspension tubes using a short 1/4-20 pan head bolt or
other bolt with a low profile head that will let the carrier rollers
clear inside.
- Now place your wall bracket between the track & the
wall and attach the bracket to the wall. Install snap out
fitting in place then use 2-4 small self drilling screws to attach the
wall bracket to the track. You track should now be very
stable on the end nearest the wall and the weight of the
track will be hanging on the suspension tubes.
- Mark your next piece of track for length and mounting
holes, cut to length if needed and drill holes as before.
Mount onto suspension tubes. Put the track in place and butt
it up against the end of the previous track. Slide the
splicing clamp up over the track joint, center over the joint and
tighten the last screw from the previous piece of track. Now
screw a small self tapping screw up through the track into the splicing
clamp on both sides of the joint to bond the 2 pieces of track together
to the splicing clamp.
- Spend some time making sure the alignment is perfect before
tightening down the screw next to the splicing clamp / joint.
Finish tightening down the rest of the screws.
- Repeat till you reach the end of the track
layout. Cut & measure the last piece of track
carefully with the proper amount allowed for the wall bracket, end stop
& snap out fitting. Put these in place on the end of
the track before you attach this last section of track to the
suspension tubes. Anchor the wall bracket to the wall.
- After you are satisfied with the track layout &
installation run a small self drilling screw up through the track into
each end stop and splicing clamp to bond them together if you have not
done this as you went..
- Pop the snap out fitting out and place the proper amount of
carrier rollers into the track. Replace snap out fitting. Hang curtain.
If you have any further question please
contact us at 1-800-804-9549 8am-5pm M-F CST and we will be glad to
help you.